For many centuries, the patterns were loosely
associated with the weavers of a particular
area, though it was common for highlanders to
wear a number of different tartans at the same
time. A 1587 charter granted to Hector Maclean
of Duart requires feu duty on land paid as 60
ells of cloth of white, black and green colors.
A witness of the 1689 Battle of Killiecrankie
describes "McDonnell's men in their triple
stripes". From 1725 the government force of the
Highland Independent Companies introduced
a standardized tartan chosen to avoid
association with any particular clan and this
was formalized when they became the Black Watch
regiment in 1739.
The most effective fighters
for Jacobitism were the supporting Scottish
clans, leading to an association of tartans with
the Jacobite cause. Efforts to pacify the
Highlands led to the 1746 Dress Act banning
tartans with exemptions for the military and the
gentry. Soon after the Act was repealed in 1782
Highland Societies of landowners were promoting
"the general use of the ancient Highland dress".
William Wilson & Sons of Bannockburn became the
foremost weaving manufacturer around 1770 as
suppliers of tartan to the military. Wilson
corresponded with his agents in the highlands to
get information and samples of cloth from the
clan districts to enable him to reproduce
"perfectly genuine patterns" and recorded over
200 setts by 1822, many of which were
tentatively named. The Cockburn Collection of
named samples made by Wilsons was put together
between 1810 and 1820 and is now in the Mitchell
Library in Glasgow. At this time many setts were
simply numbered, or given fanciful names such as
the "Robin Hood" tartan.
By the 19th century the Highland romantic
revival inspired by James Macpherson's Ossian
poems and the writings of Walter Scott led to
wider interest, with clubs like the Celtic
Society of Edinburgh welcoming Lowlanders. The
pageantry invented for the 1822 visit of King
George IV to Scotland brought a sudden demand
for tartan cloth and made it the national dress
of the whole of Scotland, with the invention of
many new clan tartans to suit.